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Giorgio ArmaniBorn in Piacenza, Italy in 1934, Giorgio Armani is one of the most celebrated and influential designers Italy has ever produced. But it was only by chance that he broke into the fashion industry in the Sixties, after brief forays into medicine (having studied at Milan University) and photography. In 1964, armed with an in-depth knowledge of fabric and design, he was taken on as a designer for Nino Cerruti's men's clothing company, Hitman. Posts at Ungaro and Zegna were soon to follow. In 1974, Armani introduced his own menswear label, his first womenswear collection coming a year later.
Loris Azzaro

Loris Azzaro (9 February 1933 – 20 November 2003) was a French fashion designer. He was born in Tunisia from Sicilian parents and came to Paris to set up his cloth and perfume lines in 1962. By 1968 his business was a huge success. He was well known for making glamorous party dresses for the elite of French society. Often his creations featured ornate beading and daring cut outs. He was also known to use brightly colored chains woven onto shirts to make intricate chainmail dresses and tops. Over the course of his long career he dressed numerous celebrities including Dalida, Sophia Loren, Raquel Welch, Marisa Berenson, Claudia Cardinale, Isabelle Adjani, Kate Winslet and Nicole Kidman.

Cristobal BalenciagaBalenciaga was successful during his early career as a designer in Spain. He opened a boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, which expanded to include branches in Madrid and Barcelona. The Spanish royal family and the aristocracy wore his designs, but when the Spanish Civil War forced him to close his stores, Balenciaga moved to Paris. Balenciaga opened his Paris couture house on Avenue George V in August 1937.
Pierre Balmain

A French fashion designer. Known for sophistication and elegance. He once said that "dressmaking is the architecture of movement." Balmain also created perfumes, including Vent Vert (1947), his first successful scent and one of the best-selling perfumes of the late 1940s and early 1950s, Jolie Madame (1953), Ivoire (1979), and Eau d'Amazonie (2006). His first perfume, launched in 1947, bore his company's Phone Number, Elysées 64-83. Balmain was nominated for the Tony Award for Best Costume Design and won the Drama Desk Award for Outstanding Costume Design for Happy New Year (1980). Additional Broadway theatre credits include costumes for Sophia Loren in The Millionairess (1960) and Josephine Baker for her eponymous 1964 revue. He also was a costume designer for 16 films, including the Brigitte Bardot vehicle And God Created Woman, and designed on-screen wardrobes for the actresses Vivien Leigh and Mae West. He made a lot of dresses for Dalida.

Geoffrey BeeneAmerican designer Geoffrey Beene was always a bit of a rebel, which might surprise those who know him only as a favorite designer of society ladies who lunch. But as a kid born in 1927 to a family of doctors, Beene spent his time at medical school sketching the dresses he saw on Hollywood starlets, all while absorbing knowledge about the structure of the human body and how the figure moves and bends. So he quit after three years and followed his distraction, moving to New York and climbing the fashion ladder from window dresser to designer.
Averardo Bessi

Averardo Bessi can be consider the classic example of a "self made man". He started as an apprentice tailor and made quick progress, receiving praise and appreciation for his work not only in Italy but all over the world. In 1959 his production, until then targeted at a selected local clientelle, began to be exported to the United States of America. From 1966 the collection was enriched by printed fabrics with his original designs and still today the firm, that has seen the entry of the third generation personally produces its own designs also taking care of the styling aspect.

Biba

Biba was the most glorious fashion retailer of the 60’s and 70’s. It was the original brainchild of Barbara Hulanicki, a skilled fashion illustrator-turned-designer from Jerusalem. Hulanicki’s family moved to England when she was just a child. Unlike most of the fashion retailers of today, Biba had humble beginnings and started off as a tiny mail-order boutique with a few cheap garments all cut to the same skinny size. Barbara wanted her designs to take off quickly and the first dress to become popular (and make the brand famous) was a simple gingham shift dress. This dress was advertised in the Daily Mirror and quickly went out of stock and into the homes of thousands of fashionable teenagers living in the UK, almost faster than she could have made them. After such a success, Hulanicki opened her first shop in Kensington in 1964, this became instantly popular as the young and fashionable flocked to pick up the cheap, wearable and devastatingly fashionable designs.

Manolo Blahnik

Working alone without assistants or apprentices, MANOLO BLAHNIK (1942-) is solely responsible for the design of every one of the thousands of shoes that bear his name. He has dominated shoe design since setting up in business in London in the early 1970s. He is solely responsible for the design and prototype of every shoe that bears his name. Working alone without apprentices or assistants, he sketches his shoes, chisels the wooden lasts on which they are moulded and sculpts the heels. He then supervises their production and even sketches the illustrations for his advertising campaigns. He has achieved all this without any formal training in shoe-making. “I didn’t need it,” Blahnik told his friend Michael Roberts only half-jokingly in the late 1970s, “because I’ve got the best taste in the world.”

Bill BlassLaunched in the 1970's, Bill Blass quickly became one of the most internationally recognized American designers. Known for his exquisite tailoring, sporty yet sophisticated aesthetic, his elite clientele has included Jacqueline Kennedy, Gloria Vanderbilt and Nancy Reagan. Though the charming and charismatic designer passed away in 2002, his legacy lives on. In July 2007 Peter Som - a graduate of Parsons School of Design and former apprentice of Michael Kors and Calvin Klein - was appointed as Creative Director of Bill Blass.
Donald Brooks 
Stephen Burrows 
Pierre Cardin 
Hattie Carnegie 
Bonnie Cashin 

Oleg Cassini

 
Roberto Cavalli 

Coco Chanel

 
Chloe 

Ceil Chapman

 
Ossie Clark 

Enid Collins

 
Andre Courreges 

Sybil Connolly

 
Oscar de la Renta 

Christian Dior

 
Estevez 

Jacques Fath

 

Mariano Fortuny

 

James Galanos

 

Jean Paul Gaultier

 

Rudi Gernreich

 

Bill Gibb

 

Hubert de Givenchy

 

Madame Gres

 

Gucci

 

Halston

 

Norman Hartnell

 

Jacques Heim

 

Hermes

 
Gilbert AdrianGilbert Adrian was first and foremost, a costume designer famed for the beauty and extravagance of his pieces. But his styles and innovations lay the groundwork for decades of fashion to come. He designed costumes for over 250 films for MGM (Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer ) in the glory days of the 1930′s and 40′s. He was Greta Garbo’s personal stylist (in a sense) and his work embodied the essence of classic Hollywood glamour.

Holly Harp

 

Norma Kamali

 

Patrick Kelly

 

Calvin Klein

 

Goldworm Italy

 

Irene (Madame Irene)

 

Karl Lagerfeld

 

Jeanne Lanvin

 

Tina Leser

 

Judith Leiber

 

Leonard Paris

 
Lilli Ann

In 1934, an apparel company called "Lilli Ann" was originated by Adolph Schuman and named for his wife Lillian. Originally this apparel company was a typical sort of start-up operation, with two used sewing machines and two part-time employees working in a tiny studio in the Chinatown district of San Francisco. Throughout the life of the company, it would be identified with San Francisco, both in advertising and in its economic and political influence in that city.

Bob Mackie

 

Marimekko

 

Claire McCardell

 

Mary McFadden

 

Missoni

 

Issey Miyake

 

Hanae Mori

 

Robert David Morton

 

Franco Moschino

 

Mr Freedom

 

Thierry Mugler

 

Jean Muir

 

Norman Norell

 

North Beach Leather

 

Olga

 

Mollie Parnis

 

Jean Patou

 

Suzy Perette

 

Paul Poiret

 

Clare Potter

 

Thea Porter

 

Emilio Pucci

 

Lilly Pulitzer

 

Mary Quant

 

Paco Rabanne

 

Carol Robins

 

Pedro Rodriguez

 

Nettie Rosenstein

 

Zandra Rhodes

 

Nina Ricci

 

St John

 

Yves Saint Laurent

 

Giorgio di Sant Angelo

 

Gunne Sax

 

Kay Selig

 

Jean Louis Scherrer

 

Elsa Schiaparelli

 

Ken Scott

 

Vicky Tiel

 

Teal Traina

 

Travilla

 

Pauline Trigere

 

Valentina

 

Valentino

 

Vanity Fair

 

Van Raalte

 

Jean Varon

 

Gianni Versace

 

Vested Gentress

 

Madeleine Vionnet

 

Michaele Vollbrach

 

Diane Von Furstenberg

 

Janice Wainwright

 

Vivienne Westwood

 

Samuel Winston

 

C.F Worth

 

Store labels - Some store owners in the mid to latter part of the 20th Century would remove the designer labels and replace them with their own. Therefore, knowing some of the more exclusive stores of different eras is helpful too. Here are some to consider:

Nicholas Ungar

 

Nordstrom Best

 

Isabell Gerhart

 

Doops

 

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